Welcome to our Natural Hair Glossary: your ultimate guide to understanding, nurturing, and styling your beautiful curls, coils, and kinks! Ever wondered what a TWA is or EVOO? Dive into a treasure trove of terminology, techniques, and product insights tailored to empower your natural hair journey.
ACV – Apple cider vinegar.
Big Chop – The act of cutting off the ends of your relaxed or chemically processed hair to reveal your true natural hair texture; term popularized by the naturally curly community in reference to dramatic, short haircuts gotten to encourage new, healthier hair growth.
Clarifying – The removal of product build up typically using shampoo, which allows hair to become lighter and easier to style.
Clip-ins – Short-term hair extensions often applied temporarily to provide the appearance of longer, thicker hair.
Closure – A lace or silk hair item that is fastened to the base of a cornrow to shield hair.
Coily – Term used to describe hair that has extremely tight curls, usually similar to a corkscrew shape. Interchangeable with the term ‘kinky’.
Cornrows – Cornrows, sometimes referred to as “cane rows” or braids, are a straightforward hair braiding style that has been around since ancient times. According to historical accounts, they first appeared in Africa and were used on women as early as 3000 B.C.; hair parting and plaiting, frequently in various patterns throughout the scalp.
Cruelty Free – Term that refers to cosmetic products that have not been tested on animals.
Conditioner – A moisturizing product made with oils and other ingredients, which helps to hydrate hair after washing it with a shampoo. It also provides slip when detangling, making hair less likely to break and tangle.
Co-Wash – This explains hair washing with conditioner only. We would not advise “washing” your hair with only conditioner. Shampoos function by eliminating debris from the hair and scalp, whereas conditioners lack the purifying qualities necessary to adequately clean hair. You can use products specifically made for co-washing such as As I Am Coconut Co-Wash Cleansing Conditioner.
Cuticle – The outer cellular layer of hair, which acts as a protective shield.
Curl Pattern – Term used to explain the pattern of your curls or how tight or loose the curls are.
Curl Sponge – A hair tool with holes and grooves of varying sizes that are used to accentuate the curls, coils, and twists throughout your hair is also referred to as a “hair twist sponge.” They come in oval, round, and rectangle shapes and are usually used on short natural hair. They are common in barbershops and give hair a finger-curled appearance.
Deep Conditioner – Moisturising product, typically used in conjunction with steam or moist heat to increase the formula’s absorption into your hair; used to provide extra care for your hair.
Deep Conditioning – the application of a moisturising product, typically in conjunction with steam or moist heat to increase the formula’s absorption into your hair.
Detangling – The process of going through hair to make sure there are no knots by spreading your fingers or using a wide/broad tooth comb.
Dusting – A kind of hair cutting technique in which extremely small amounts of damaged hair tips are eliminated; removal of fairy knots and dry ends. As this only removes the very tips or just what is damaged, it helps maximise length retention, regardless of original hair length.
EVOO – Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
Hygral fatigue – Type of hair damage caused by over-moisturizing, which leads to the hair follicle expanding and contracting too much. It’s an extreme form of moisture overload that can happen when the hair cuticle is damaged by too much moisture entering and leaving the hair shaft frequently. Hair that’s wetted and dried constantly can also experience hygral fatigue because the hair is stretched continuously, which can lead to frizz and breakage. High porosity hair is more likely to experience hygral fatigue.
Kinky – Term used to describe hair that has extremely tight curls, usually similar to a corkscrew shape. Interchangeable with the term ‘coily’.
Palm Rolling – A technique of maintaining/encouraging locs that includes using the palm of your hands to neaten, and bring shape to your locs.
Parabens – Chemicals that are used as preservatives to stabilise formulas and stop the growth of mold, fungi and harmful pathogens. Parabens are known to cause skin and eye irritation and have been related to endocrine disruption, developmental and reproductive toxicity. They can also mimic the hormone estrogen and have been linked to increased growth of breast cancer cells.
Patch test – Patch testing is a crucial procedure to check if a new skincare/haircare product, like face oils, scalp oils or cosmetics, is safe for your skin. To conduct a patch test, apply the product to a small, quarter-sized spot on the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow, using the usual amount and thickness. Leave it on for the same duration you would during regular use. Monitor the area for any irritation, redness, itching, or swelling during this period and for 24 hours afterward. If no adverse reaction occurs, the product is likely safe for your skin. This step helps prevent widespread irritation and ensures product compatibility.
Pineapple – Term used to describe a high ponytail hairstyle which resembles a pineapple. It is also used to help keep curl definition and maintain hairstyles at when sleeping.
Plopping – Technique that involves wrapping hair with a T-shirt or microfibre towel while it is still wet to absorb excess water, also using hands to “squish” curls into shape. This technique reduces frizz and defines curls.
Pre-poo – Product or natural oil which is applied to your hair before starting the shampooing process. We suggest doing a pre poo with coconut oil to avoid hygral fatigue (see letter H for definition).
Protective Hairstyle – A protective style is any style that keeps the ends of the hair tucked away and minimises manipulation. Protective styling gives the ends of our hair a break from nasty weather conditions. These styles tuck away our delicate ends and usually group the strands together. This gives them “safety in numbers” says Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, the author of The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care.
Product Junkie (PJ) – Someone who compulsively buys hair care products; common term used in the online natural hair community. Some signs that someone might be a PJ include:
Porosity – Term that describes your hairs ability to to take on and hold onto moisture; how porous your hair is.
Perm – Abbreviation of Permanent; term first popularised in the United States online natural hair community do describe the use of chemicals, to change your hair’s natural texture by loosing the tightness of your curl pattern, resulting in either straight, wavy or curly hair; perming hair; interchangeable term for “relaxing hair”.
Sealing – Water evaporates easily from the hair so a relatively thick oil blend is needed to seal in moisture. The best blends contain olive oil, coconut oil, castor oil and jojoba oil. Seal contains all of these and more so it’s our top recommendation, it was recently voted the top Indy Best oil for afro hair because it: “penetrates the hair shaft and leaves your strands feeling hydrated and super soft, and it remains that way for hours afterwards.”
Search and Destroy – A hair trimming technique, in which the hair dresser looks for and cuts out split ends just above the top of the split.
Sisterlocks – A form of micro-locs (small locs) which are created using a special tool, which locks strands of hair from the bottom up.
Shampoo – Shampoo is a product that is usually used to remove build-up of products from hair, making it lighter and simpler to style; product used to wash hair and clean away externalities and dead skin that may have gathered around the follicles.
Shingling – Styling technique in which you use a product such as leave in conditioner, curly cream or gel to define each individual curl of your hair
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate/Sulphates – Cleansing agents that remove oil and build-up left on the hair and scalp from styling products. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is sensitising and can cause skin irritation especially for eczema sufferers. It is extremely drying on afro hair as it strips the hair of its natural oils.
Shrinkage – Curls becoming tighter and appearing shorter, usually after being wet.
Silicones – The types of silicones used in hair care products are supported by scientific research and are considered safe. There are many variants of silicones used in hair and skin care for protection against moisture loss. High-grade silicones allow for nutrients and moisture to penetrate the hair shaft, however, lower grade silicones tend to build up faster.
Split Ends – Are when the hair becomes dry and brittle at the ends causing the strands to split and look frayed and damaged,
Second Day Hair – Hair that has gone more than one day without being washed.
Slip – This usually refers to how much lubrication a product like conditioner or hair cream can give your hair once applied. Products with lots of slip can make it easier to detangle curly and afro hair.
Shea Butter – Oil that is extracted from Shea tree nuts/seeds, found in east and west Africa. It is rich and creamy in texture and is also favoured for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
TWA – Acronym for Teeny Weeny Afro; expression referring to short natural hair.
Wash and Go – Washing and styling your hair without the use of heat, protective styling, or other manipulation techniques; washing your hair and wearing it in its natural state without manipulating its original curl pattern; washing your hair applying minimal products such as leave-in-conditioner and/or gel.
Wide tooth comb – Comb with wide-set teeth that is commonly used by people with textured hair as it can glide easier through hair. This type of comb is usually recommended to those with tighter curls and kinks due to causing less tugging, less pulling and therefore less damage to your hair.
Wig – Artificial hair covering composed of synthetic or human hair fibres. Wigs are a common protective hairstyle for women with curly or afro hair because of their adaptability.
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